We would all like to stay forever young and keep our skin like that of a newborn baby, but it is not possible. We can however slow down the skin's ageing process, which start to deteriorate as soon as we are born when the free radicals sum the oxidation (destruction) process of all our connective tissues. We slow this process by using antioxidants like Carotene and Vitamins A,D and E.

Oxidation is the same process which affects the skin, but it also affects creams and base oil as soon as they are- made. In creams and oils, the free radicals start to feed themselves on the oil molecules and the destruction eventually renders the cream rancid.

Vitamin E’s most important task is to counteract oxidation (rancidity) in fats and oils, as well as to prevent the occurrence of free radicals. It can also prevent oxidation in essential oils. The vitamin is used therefore as an antioxidant at a strength of 0.5-1 % in fats and oils, as well as in skincare products containing fats and oils. The antioxidation ion process occurs in such a way that the tocopherols bond with the oxygen and thus prevent the oxidation of the easily oxidised polyunsaturated fatty acids. The tocopherols arc themselves destroyed but do not leave behind any ‘dangerous' residues.

The tocopherols operate and are active both in the product and on the person's skin and inner organs. The need for tocopherols in products or in the human body will depend on the amount of compounds prone to oxidisation, such as polyunsaturated Fatty acids which are present. The more polyunsaturated fat one cats, the more tocopherol one will need. Similarly, the more polyunsaturated fan in a product, the more tocopherol it will need to contain.

Tocopherols protect against the side effects of radiotherapy and cytotoxins. Cells deficient in vitamin E and selenium are much more prone to oxidation and the formation of free radicals. Free radicals are formed during exposure to sunlight, during the breaking down of environmental pollutants and during the oxidation of oils when exposed to heat or sunlight. Vitamin E applied to the skin will penetrate it and lake care of the free radicals. The vitamin will absorb the sun's dangerous ultra-violet rays which are responsible for the reddening of the skin, sunburn and more serious burns. Ultra-violet rays and the free radicals age the skin more quickly, reducing its elasticity and creating wrinkles. Vitamin E. therefore works to prevent wrinkles, stimulates the blood circulation and regulates the skin's elasticity.

In ointments and creams vitamin E will help to heal cracks and sores in the skin and will remove scars with regular use over a longer period of time. Taken internally, high doses are not dangerous but can raise blood pressure.

In this country people tend to use wheatgerm as an antioxidant. However, wheatgerm oil goes rancid within a few weeks. This is because it contains very little E-Vitamin 0il (0.4 - 0.5%). It has a large amount of linolenic acid that makes this rancidity process even faster. This is why the smell of wheatgerm is normally so bad. A rancid product accelerates the rancidity process of the skin and through that we get wrinkles.

When I started my own skincare factory in Sweden in 1985, we had little knowledge of these properties for wheatgerm and used 5% wheatgerm in all our products. The shelf life of my creams was just 8 - 9 months before it went rancid a friend and researcher into E-vitamin Oil convinced me to use 100% foodgradce E-Vitamin Oil and the shelf life more than doubled. So if you want to double the shelf life of your skin you can use E ­Vitamin Oil Professional cosmetic products rarely use wheatgern these day.

0.5% E-vitamin oil is only enough to be an antioxidant for the product ingredients. For skin protection you need to increase the amount from 2 - 3% up to 30%. This can easily be blended into your base oil. Applying 30% E-Vitamin Oil keeps the skin in good condition and actually increases the growth of new skin cells. It also increases the circulation, so don't worry if your skin gets slightly reddish. You can safely use up to around 50% E-Vitamin Oil. It is greasy substances so if you have oily skin you need to combine it with a high dosage of thin dry vegetable oil.

Recipes for blended skin oils with mega doses of vitamins

NATURAL SKIN CARE
These oils are from Erling Urt who is an expert on vegetable oils and mega doses of vitamins for skincare products. You can learn more about these recipes from his courses, the first of which will be held in London on the 3rd and 4th July 2004.